BR'S YUGO SKS JOURNAL

Sunday, January 1, 2012

SKS sight adjustment

If you read my last SKS post, you know that I shot the Yugo at the range last weekend and adjusted my TechSIGHTS. The problem was that when I was finished, I wasn't happy with the fact that the front sight was shifted way off to one side. Since I has just cleaned the rifle, I decided that today was a good time to correct this problem. Adjusting sights on an SKS is not news to most of you, but I'm sure it is to some so I decided to shoot some photos as I went along.

The sight adjustment tool shown above is a simple an inexpensive gadget that you can pick up at http://www.tech-sights.com/ for $7.95 It is similar to an AR's adjustment tool. If you have TechSIGHTS installed, this tool will adjust the front elevation and the rear windage.

The gadget directly above is for adjusting the front sight windage. I just checked and you can get one at 'Cheaper Than Dirt' for $5.97. It's very simple to use. Simply put it over your sight and turn the screw to push the pin that the sight rides on either left or right.

Here's my Krytonyte Green Laser at around 30 yards. Notice how bright it is outside during the day.

This is the same tool I used in the first photo. When turned around, it can be used to adjust the rear sight windage. The tool has a series of pins in a circular configuration. Simply match the pins to the holes on your sight and rotate to move the sight right or left.

This is the adjusted rear sight. It's a bit to the left, and the front is a bit off as well, but it should be on target without looking odd. I'll verify the sight adjustment the next time I shoot.

Monday, December 26, 2011

Adjusting TechSights on a Yugo SKS



Model M SKS, Yugo SKS, Henry AR-7 .22LR

TechSIGHTS on my Yugo SKS




Dirk Files with his Model M SKS


One of today's projects was to get the TechSIGHTS on the Yugo SKS correctly centered. I noticed the last time out that my rear sight was adjusted to one side just about as far as it would go. To correct this, while at home, I put the green laser in the barrel after centering the rear sight and adjusted the front sight post in alignment with the laser. Today I used a sight tool to fine tune the post position by pushing the front sight until it was on target.


Check out Dirk's Model M SKS! Short barrel and removable magazine. I think it's a perfect rifle for home protection. I want one! 



Sunday, April 10, 2011

TechSIGHTS Work



CLICK HERE for the story

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

An interesting letter from Don of Milford (Cincinnati) Ohio

Dear Bob:

I've had some interesting experiences with my Yugo SKS I'd like to share.

By the way, I'm pretty sure my Yugo SKS was unfired like you said yours was.

I've had cycling problems during the first (post cosmolene removal) box of Russian rounds which I believe I then cured via enlarging the barrel by-pass hole to a diameter half way toward that of a Norinco SKS I used to have. FYI, the by-pass hole diameter in my Romanian AD-47 is REALLY LARGE, way larger than that Norinco SKS's. I can give you the drill sizes/hole diameters I'm talking about if you wish.

During the next 40 rounds or so, my firing pin stuck due to the metal forward of the fp retaining pin, metal on the fp itself, literally plowing up (upsetting) and locking the fp hard in a position of lightly denting some or most primers. I found this was not a dirt fouling issue, rather actual upset/shearing forward of the fp metal, thus dragging on the passage way in which the fp fits. One would think the fp would be very hard, and would dent the retainer, but no. I easily filed away the upset metal on the fp with a regular file, but I've not used that original fp since. It's a wonder the SKS didn't go auto on me as the fp tip was protruding out of the bolt about as far as a regular fire-travel. The gun actually fired singly, after reloading the lightly dented round. Sometimes I'd only get a "click" though. I had to drive the fp out of the bolt with a drift punch with pretty good hammer effort.

Thanks to you and Brownells, I now have a Murray fp and it works well. However, I'm not thrilled with the shape of the Murray unit, as I feel the original fp design has a broader tip, other than the possible hardness issue that caused the metal upset problem. I'm not convinced Murray's spring idea is needed or worth the trouble. AK's don't have a spring, nor did my well-working Norinco SKS.

To go on, again, now I'm getting that primer-punching protruding metal ring on the bolt face I read about. I've filed that down (with another diamond file), but now wonder if the Yugo people didn't heat treat the bolt correctly. It seems to rebuild itself in about 40 rounds of fire. I believe the bullet bases are actually extruding the folt face. And, maybe Murrany's fp design is contributing. I'll be looking for another bolt at gun shows, or trying one from Numerich or someplace. Maybe the new one will be from another country and be harder. I believe all SKS bolts, whatever the country of origin, are the same design and size.

Lastly, I installed a 30-round magazine which works very well. It is a "USA Mag" unit, which, contrary to your comment, DOES hold the bolt open nicely when empty. What make did you try?

Interestingly enough, none of my AK mags held the bolt open until I found a Yugo AK mag. which does. As a sidelight, somebody showed my how to modify non-holding mags via disassemble and reworking to hold a bolt open.

That's all for now.

I'd like to hear if you got this note and if you think I'm on the right track with any of my Yugo SKS comments, etc.

Ps, my next move is to try a buffer. Numerich has them for $9.95, but I'll look at gun shows first. Think I'll get one for my AK, and maybe my Smith and Wesson .22 caliber model 41 target pistol too.

Don of Milford (Cincinnati) Ohio.

Monday, August 2, 2010

How I clean my SKS with Dunk-Kit

Nothing I have ever seen makes cleaning my SKS easier than using Dunk-Kit.
Dunk-Kit on the web


Saturday, July 31, 2010

The Final TechSIGHTS Test - It Works!!


A few weeks ago I installed a TechSIGHTS peep sight on my SKS. The sight worked great, but the question is, what happens when I remove the sight to clean the rifle, then reinstall it? Will the sights remain on target? This was the objective of today's test.


You can pick up TechSIGHTS at: www.tech-sights.com
The goggles are from Maximum Eyewear: www.maximumeyewear.com

Saturday, May 22, 2010

YUGO SKS AND SPORTER

I made the mistake today of not taking my SKS to the range. Within the first 10 minutes, my 44 Magnum jammed and my rifle shooting was over for the day. Check out my 2010 Range Report and Henry 44 Magnum pages for more on that.

There were two guys two benches over that were shooting SKS's. One was a Yuga and the other a Sporter Model. The Sporters are very cool, and the model compares to the Yugo somewhat like the M1 Carbine compares to the M1 Garand. It's a short, compact model which seems superior for fighting at close range, but I'm guessing loses accuracy at 100 yards. I handed these guys my cards, so if you happen to be checking in to see yourself, please click 'Comments' below this post and give me your feelings on the way the models compare. Thanks.

THAT IS ONE NICE SKS!

We did discuss the fact that the Sporter comes with a removable hi-capacity magazine. That's great if they are break-away magazines like this model uses, but FIXED hi-cap mags installed on Yugos are dangerous in my opinion because in the case of a jam or other emergency, the mag can't be dumped with the simple push of a lever. The bolt also doesn't remain open when the last round is fired, indicating that the action is clear. I suggest staying with the fixed 10 round mag that came with the rifle.

Friday, April 16, 2010

TECHSIGHTS Adjustment Tools

I discovered at the range last weekend that one thing you will absolutely need when you install your TechSIGHTS are a couple of very simple and inexpensive adjustment tools. Without them it's very difficult to adjust the sights without marring the finish, though I was able to after some effort with the TechSIGHTS on my 10/22. The tool shown above will adjust rear windage and front sight elevation. The tool goes for $7.95 from TechSIGHTS and makes front sight removal, installation and adjustment a cinch.

Above is a photo I took of the stock sight and on it's left, the TechSIGHTS replacement. It's much narrower and taller, which should make for refined sight adjustment. I'm sure it will be well worth the $5 investment (check out my March 24th post for more info).

To install or adjust the front sight, simply drop the sight adjustment tool through the hole in the sight hood. Two sides are flat, so once the tool fits over the sight, it easily rotates the sight in or out (up or down). I was actually amazed how easily the old sight rotated out of the threads. I'm notorious for snapping off screws, but I'm happy to say that tonight I wasn't up to my usual form. The sight came out in tact thanks to this simple tool.

This little gadget goes for a whopping $5 and made an almost impossible task easy. I tried to rotate the rear sight at the range but couldn't do it without making a mess of the finish. The wrench has a tiny hook that slips over the adjuster and the thing just spins. It should now be a breeze to adjust the elevation. This gadget is a must. It's also capable of adjusting the rear windage in a pinch.

The front sight adjusting tool is similar to an M16 sight adjuster, but slightly smaller. I tried a M16 tool at the range and the pins were slightly too big. This one fits. I highly recommend ordering these tools when you order your sight, and they will only add $12.95 to the bill. Here's the link where they can be ordered. http://www.tech-sights.com/, then click 'Accessories' in the left column.

Monday, April 12, 2010

TechSIGHTS in the Yugo SKS


My goal today was to test out my new TechSIGHTS on the SKS and some new loads for the 44 Magnum. I'm also still testing the peep sight I installed on the Henry last fall. I started with shooting the SKS.

My daughter bought me an SKS bipod for Christmas, and this was my first opportunity to try it out. Usually when I'm shooting my SKS from the bench, the bayonet always seems to be in the way. It's like trying to stand up straight on the blade of an ice skate. The bipod gave me much more stability and it's also nice that the rifle remains upright when loading in the stripper clip or when I want to walk away from the table. For an inexpensive bipod, I was very happy with it. This was also my first opportunity to test out the TechSIGHTS.

I'm nearsighted and have been needing an eye exam for some time now, so it was immediately obvious that it was much easier to quickly acquire my target with this sight system. With a peep sight, you basically forget there's a rear sight and simply deal with the from sight post. That part of the system worked great. If you read my SKS page, you'll see that I bore-sighted this rifle in with my LaserLyte green bore sighter. That's why I was amazed at how far off I was shooting. My groups were similar to those using iron sights, but I was hitting about a foot above my target. I found that without sight adjustment tools, this sight is very difficult to adjust, so I recommend ordering the inexpensive adjustment tools when you order your sights. This will be an easy fix once I get the tools. The sights remained good and solid, which is an important issue with the SKS configuration since most SKS sight systems I've tried tend to 'walk'. My next test will be removing the rear sight to clean the rifle, and reassemble it to see if it stays on target. I'll need to sight it in before I can conduct the test. I expect to have that report up in a few weeks. I always have to laugh when it's time to pick up cases after the shoot, which are usually 3 tables away...
CLICK HERE to read the entire post

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

TechSIGHTS front sights for SKS

"Bob here is a pic of the Techsight replacement front compared to the standard SKS front sight post. As you can see it's about half the diameter of the original post and gives you a finer aiming point and also a bit taller which give you a little mores range of adjustment,for $7 shipped it's a good cheap accuracy improvement."

Thanks Ronnie! I just contacted TechSIGHTS to see if I can test one. ~Bob

Item #TS152 - Target Post for the SKS/AK Rifles. * Finer Post (.047 Dia.)
* 4140 Material
* Parkerized Finish
* The perfect accessory for improving your accuracy.
* Works with standard sights as well as
Tech-SIGHTS TS100 & TS200.
http://www.tech-sights.com/

Pictures from Ronnie

Yugo SKS

Chinese

Ronnie's a reader of this blog that is a good guy as well as a wealth of information. Here's a couple of his SKS's that I think you'll enjoy seeing. I can't believe he bought such nice rifles for so little! I love that scope mount. Ronnie sent me info on that as well which I will be posting soon.
Hi Bob,

My Unissued Yugo ran me about $149 and my NIB Chinese factory /26\ hit me up for $200 didn't mind paying that for it though being it was still in the box and never fired. There still importing the Russians up in Canada for about the price of a nice Chinese here along with some of the Chinese M14 knockoffs. The Russians is the grandfather of the SKS but I like both of mine just as good, they shoot just as well,which is all that matters to me. Would still be nice to own one though.

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Russian SKS

Nice video, which includes the history of the SKS. Can you believe that this guy paid under $100 for a never used Russian SKS?! A piece of junk Russian with broken stock and painted metal goes for at least $500 these days, if you can find one. Yugos in my area have increased in price from $200 to $300 in the past few years, and even they are difficult to find. Enjoy the video.


Wednesday, February 24, 2010

First look at TechSIGHTS for the SKS





When I arrived home from work today I was psyched to see that my SKS TechSIGHTS had arrived. This sighting system (Model TS2000) is an M1-type peep-sight setup that attaches to the receiver cover via the takedown latch. That's the pin that you rotate and withdraw to remove the receiver cover.

The first thing that you'll notice when you open the package is the excellent construction. It's made of very solid, steel components finished with military spec manganese phosphate and hard-coated anodized aluminum, also to military specifications. I've found that the biggest weakness with any sighting system on the SKS is its attachment to the rifle. Most everything attaches to the receiver cover, which means that when the receiver cover starts to walk, so does your scope or whatever else you've mounted. This unit attaches itself to the receiver via the take-down latch and pushes against the receiver itself and not the cover. This looks like it will actually be a very solid mount.

The first step in mounting this sight is to remove the stock takedown latch. There's a pin at the end of the latch that keeps it from falling out of the receiver when the latch is withdrawn. Some latch pins can be pressed down, which makes it easy to remove the latch. Of course, this wasn't the case with my SKS and I had to deal with a pin that was brazed on. The instructions suggest taking it to your gunsmith, but I'm not that patient nor do I want to pay to complete this step. I got out one of my father's old disk cutter, put it on a drill and in seconds the pin was gone and the latch was in my hand. That was easy! It's all downhill from here. It's my understanding that some states might have a stupid law prohibiting you from modifying the latch pin, so be aware of any law that affects you.

4 small screws go into the back of the sight, and each screw has a small brass pin projecting from it. Unlike all the junk I've installed in the past to attach a scope that cut into the receiver's finish, brass pins won't destroy your rifle. That's a nice touch. You screw them in until the pins are flush with the sight's inner surface, then stop. Next you replace the stock latch pin with a similar 'cross screw' that comes with the kit. The screw goes into the sight, the sight goes over the receiver cover and the 'cross screw' passes through the takedown latch holes. A nut at the other end holds it in place. Now you tighten down the 4 screws until the sight stops rotating, and TechSIGHTS claims that the sight will return to zero after it is removed and replaced. Those tiny screws have some kind of dry locking compound on them to keep the screws from backing out.

This M1 / M16 style TS200 sight has both windage and elevation adjustments.

The package comes with instructions on how to remove the rear sight, but it looks to me as if the peep sight looks over the old rear sight, so I may be able to keep it on. Hey, you never know when you might need use of that grenade launcher.

It seems like I'm always dropping and losing small parts, so I decide to order an extra set of the 3 loose parts:
  • TS00104 Cross Screw
  • TS00145 Nut
  • TS00128 Lock Screw
The lock screw is an extra locking system for people who do a lot of shooting. The 'lock screw' threads into the end of the 'nut' to lock it down. Kind of like double knotting your shoe laces.

The installation took me about 45 minutes, but you guys who can follow instructions might be able to do it in 15. I usually have to do everything twice to get it right, Dah.

The weather has been so lousy that I doubt I'll be able to try these sights out for a few weeks. I'm looking forward to that shoot because it will be a first for the TechSIGHTS, the new gas valve and the bipod. It should be a blast, so check back for more.



One of my buddies writes:
"Something to chew on. Had HiVis sights on my shotgun. Made of plastic. Broke the front one night before deer season. Will no longer buy plastic anything for my guns! The search is on."
No problem here!

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Reloading links from Ronnie

A reader named Ronnie has been leaving some excellent comments here and on the reloading page. Take the time to read them. Here's a few links he's sent me today, along with photos of cartridges for 7.62 x 39 and 7.62 x 54 he's reloaded:
Primers
http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=56422.0
Reloading
http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=30961.0
Thanks very much for your help Ronnie!



Here's an excellent post on everything you've ever wanted to know about 7.62 x 39 Wolf ammo.
An inside look: Wolf 7.62x39mm 122 grain HP

I've been working on some cast bullets loads for my SKS rifles...
http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=66214.0

Monday, January 11, 2010

Installing a new gas valve

CNC Warrior's new gas valve

Removing the existing gas valve
CNC Warrior surprised me today by sending me two gas valves for my Yugo. It didn't take long before I was pulling off the hand guard/gas tube assembly and pulling out the gas valve. The thumb switch and spring pops right out once the valve is centered and pulled partially out, then the existing valve slides right out.

Installing the new gas valve
Getting the new valve in wasn't quite as easy, but then it's new and not worn. How much bigger? I put a micrometer on the two and here's the results (Old vs New):
Diameter: .549" / .5885"
OA Length: .921" / .9215"
Barrel length: .815" / .820"
Dia. of end that slides into gas tube: .508" / .506"

Tapping in the new gas valve
As you can see, the two are very close in size, the new valve being a bit bigger. That tiny increase in size makes for a very tight fit. When the new valve is slid into the gas vent housing, it stops around the hole in the gas valve. I'm guessing there's a tiny shaving of metal in the interior of the barrel that hangs up the tighter fitting valve. I carefully tapped the base of the valve with a rubber mallet, then nudged it out by putting a screwdriver blade in from of the valve, pushing it out. After doing this 3 or 4 times the valve slid much easier. I was then able to push the valve in, and rotate it to the right to lock it into its correct position. It's tight, but then it's supposed to be. I'll be bringing the mallet and screwdriver to the range with me until it's broken in, just in case the valve needs to be rotated or removed. I have no doubt this valve is going to seal tightly. I'll give you a report on it the next time I shoot and remove it for cleaning. Thanks again CNC Warrior. Here's a link to their web page: www.cncwarrior.com

Click HERE to see a post I put up on CNC Warrior's gas valves 3 years ago.

AN IMPORTANT NOTE ON CLEANING
As some of you may know, I was a Navy Seabee and after we fired our M-16's, the battalion always scrubbed their weapons thoroughly in a trough of solvent, then hosed them down with cans of WD-40. I still sometimes follow that routine to some extent, but it's not the best idea, especially when shooting military surplus ammo. WD-40 is an very good solvent, and I've always liked the idea that I could spray a hi-pressure stream into hard to reach places. The problem is that it's a penetrating oil and I've heard it contains of a high percentage of kerosene (though I can't find that info anywhere, including the 'Material Safety Data Sheet').
"....the last thing I need when lives are on the line is dead ammo..."
Kerosene can break down the waterproofing that seals military ammo, contaminating primers and powder. It's funny, but I've been using WD-40 for about 40 years, and I've never had an issue like this. The possibility does make me think twice about using it in any weapon that I use for home and personal defense, because the last thing I need when lives are on the line is dead ammo. On my range rifles it's not that important, and it does do a great job cleaning as well as being relatively inexpensive. If you do use it, be sure to completely dry off your firearm prior to reassembly. I'm guessing that the military wised up about this some time ago... at least I hope so.

Monday, January 4, 2010

SKS Bipod


My daughter bought me this bipod for Christmas for my SKS. It's perfect and sells for only $22 including shipping! Picked it up on Amazon.com. Here's the link. The store's name is 'The Global Sportsman'. After installing the bipod, I noticed that there's a bit of forward and backward play due to the fact that there's a 1/32" or so gap between the top of the biopod lug and the inside top of the bayonet clamp. I went through my bins of junk and found an aluminum picture hanger; the kind with a jagged side that you nail into the back of a frame to hang it from a nail. I snapped off and filed down a tiny piece less than 1/4" square and slid it into the gap with a bit of LockTite. Now it's as solid as a rock. This isn't the kind of bipod you would want in combat if you plan to hit the dirt bipod first while firing your weapon. But if you shoot your rifle from a bench, I think this will do the trick. Now the question is how long it will last. I'll let you know if and when it fails.

Sunday, January 3, 2010

First shoot of 2010 with the Yugo SKS

Here's a report on my first range shoot with this Yugo SKS in two years. I installed a spring-loaded firing pin kit and everything went well. CLICK HERE to read the story.

....and HERE'S A POST about cleaning the SKS after the shoot.

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Murray's Firing Pin Kit and Gas Valve for the Yugo SKS

Below are a couple of quick movie clips I made tonight while installing Ben Murray's firing pin kit. The kit comes with a new stainless steel firing pin and 2 springs. Yugo firing pins are free floating and if they stick for some reason, it will result in a 'slam-fire', which means that your semi-auto will fire full-auto until your magazine is empty. Ben's kit adds a return spring to the mix so this doesn't happen.

Ben sent me a kit to try out so I installed it tonight. To swap out the pins, all you need to do is hammer out the firing pin retainer, which is a pin that keeps the firing pin locked in the bolt. Once that pin is removed, the old pin slides right out and you can replace it with Ben's kit. Simply slide one of the two springs that comes with the kit over the new pin, slide it into the hole and reinsert the retainer pin. I suggest checking the bolt and pin during each cleaning to be sure that the pin is functioning properly. Should the spring ever break, immediately replace it with the extra that comes in the kit.
video
Removing the firing pin retainer

video
The bolt with new spring-loaded kit installed

Here's the original letter I received from Ben:

...I’d like to send you a Firing Pin Kit and a Gas Valve. We've heard reports that when (one of our competitor's) valves are installed, the gas hole in the valve does not correctly line up with the hole in the gas block/barrel. Maybe there are only a few that are mis-aligned but that is the type of quality control that makes us feel like ours are slightly better. But it’s not just that. Ours are also different in the fact that ours are machined slightly oversize, especially to help get the older, more used 59/66’s running again. Plus, customers have their choice of an “original” style Valve, that uses the original spring loaded button/selector, or our “New Style” that has a socket head cap screw , that’s used in place of the spring loaded button. And we even include an Allen wrench. Allows semi-permanent positioning of the valve so it can’t be accidentally knocked out of position. One customer in particular uses this version to “lock” it into single-shot mode while his 17 yr old son is deer hunting in a deer stand nearby, but not directly chaperoned. Ours are made from SS as this seems to make the inevitable cleaning of the carbon build-up on the valve much easier. While you may not have an “older, more used” Yugo to test it on, you could install it in the gas block, note the tighter fit you will feel, and at least start to install the gas tube on it, and again feel the tightness difference. Ours are advertised on our site for $21.00. But this includes CC fee and shipping. (First Class) So I believe they will only be slightly higher than theirs once shipping and/or CC fee are added...
Hope you and yours have a very Merry Christmas.
Thanks ~Ben Murray, ben@murraysguns.com
http://www.murraysguns.com/sksown.htm
I discovered a broken spring in one of my bolts and asked Ben why this occurred. Here's some interesting info he just sent me:
READ: Popped Primer(s) www.murraysguns.com/poppedprimers.htm
This is one of the attributes of our firing pin kit. When a hole gets blown through a primer, hot gas blows back through the firing pin hole with significant force. Enough in some cases to blow an “original free-floating” FP out the back of the bolt. The bump on the FP that is supposed to stop rearward movement against Retaining Pin becomes sheared off at worst and often times bent, and begins sticking both rearward and forward. But, with our FP Kit the spring is usually all that is damaged. The “Murrays” FP, even without a spring, will still function safely. But we supply replacement springs, no charge. This only happens with the imported (mostly Russian) “Berdan” primed ammo. With American, or any “Boxer” primed ammo, this will never occur. It only takes one “popped primer” incident to fry our spring.
Seems like a great reason to start reloading my own 7.62x39 ammo.

Friday, December 18, 2009

Saturday, December 12, 2009

I'm back in business!

It's been about 2 years since I sold off my SKSs to buy rifles I needed for hunting. Well as of today, this blog is up and running again! I repurchased my original SKS this morning, and it doesn't look like it's even been shot. Check back after Christmas as I begin posting again. Until then, have a Very Merry Christmas!!

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Should you buy a 30 round magazine for your Yugo?


It's good to be writing on this SKS blog again. It's been two years since I sold my two Yugos and today I bought one of them back; the stock unmodified rifle. It wasn't long before the gears started turning and I began thinking about how to improve the rifle. Not that it really needs anything, except a spring-loaded firing pin to prevent slam fires, but as you know adding stuff to this kind of rifle is almost an addiction.

(My high-capacity magazine)
One of the options available is a high capacity 30-round magazine. Not that I need to blow a box of ammo off really fast considering ammo prices these days, but it does make the rifle look cool. Here's the problem that I discovered when I installed my 30-round magazine:

You're shooting at the range and the range officer calls a "Cease Fire!"... or your rifle malfunctions. What do you do? Normally my first reaction would be to pull the lever that drops open the magazine assembly cover. The problem is that my 30 round mag doesn't have a door that drops and the magazine is fixed. You've lost that great safety feature which allows you to instantaneously separate the ammo from the gun the moment a problem arises. Is it worth losing that feature to gain the extra capacity? That's you're decision, but I've chosen to stay stock.

Sunday, August 23, 2009

Hello out there!.....

As of 12/12/09 I have 106,000 hits on this Shooting Journal, yet I have no idea who's out there reading it. It would be encouraging to get an email from you with as little as your name and state, letting me know that you're out there. This info will help me improve the blog, and I assure you I am not collecting email addresses and no one but me will see your letter. I've set up a special email box at brshooting@sbcglobal.net, so please take a minute to say 'Hello'.

Thanks! ~Bob

Friday, July 20, 2007

How to assemble and disassemble a Yugo SKS

video

Note that the bolt's spring tension can be relieved by moving the bolt forward by opening the magazine latch. In this video the bolt is in the rearward position for safety reasons. The rearward bolt allows for a clear view of the receiver, allowing you to visually determine if there is a round in the magazine or in the chamber.

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Test firing the spring loaded firing pins



In the top photo, my dog Sandy is standing in for Vanna White as she shows you today's targets. Today everything was covered with 3 solid inches of rock hard, smooth icy snow. I went to the range late afternoon yesterday, but it was so cold that no one was shooting (that's very rare). 14F is too cold. Today it was in the upper 20's so it felt like a heat wave to all but my finger tips. The target frames at the range are so shot up that it's almost impossible to stick a target to the cardboard. If you look at the photo of Sandy again, you'll notice that my targets are on white backers. What I now do is bring my own cardboard covered with a 4 ft sheet of paper. I then sick a single target to that. It makes it MUCH easier to set up my targets and to see the bullet holes when I'm sighting in a new scope or gun. Forget the range's backers. It's absolutely impossible to locate a shot if you miss the target. This makes it simple at 100 yards.

I shot for an hour today and went through 15 stripper clips (150 rounds). I took both SKS's and both worked beautifully. The top target was actually my second target, the bottom was the first. I started with the new SKS, guessed at the rear sight setting and started hitting the second ring immediately. I then switched back and forth between the 2 rifles every ten rounds until the ceasefire. After changing targets, I used my older SKS exclusively on the fresh target. The new spring loaded firing pins worked beautifully, as did the new gas valve and muzzle brake I installed on the older SKS (see the PRODUCTS page). Also note that the LockTite kept the muzzle brake from rotating. Out of 150 rounds I had one misfire. The primer had a major punch right where it should be, so I attribute the failure to bad ammo and not the firing pin. Since I didn't have a sight adjustment tool on me, I targeted off center as required to hit the target center. The handful of rounds in the white were the result of that adjustment process. My son Jamie and his friend Mark went with me today. It was Mark's first experience with a real gun or range. They're both big into AirSoft (see the product page for a photo) so I thought I'd give him a taste of the real thing.

I'm not looking forward to cleaning 2 SKSs tonight. Cleaning one takes me an hour. Cleaning 2...oh brother. Now that I know they both fire nicely, one will have to remain in the car as a backup.